One of the things I want to start doing in 2011 is travelling to more places that are off the beaten path and writing about them. The first stop on the tour was Northern Arizona, including a town called Jerome, and a follow up hike in Sedona’s Boynton Canyon.
Jerome is an old mining town built on a hill. It was a fairly populated place until the mine shut down, and then had as few as 50 residents in 1950. Since all the houses were still in good shape, just abandoned, a bunch of artists moved up and took them over. So now what you have is a kind of old ghost town with art galleries.
The notable feature of the town is that it’s built on a hill. A few streets run back and forth through the town at different elevations. So you don’t walk north, south, east, west as much as you walk up, down, left, right, navigating from street to street (which is actually the same street curving around) via a set of staircases. For example, here are the directions you get when asking how to get from our hotel to a place to eat. “Go down the hill there. When you get to Haunted Hamburgers, walk down the staircase about 100 yards north. At the bottom of that staircase, turn left. There’s one place down on your left. If that doesn’t look good, walk down the stairs to the next street and you’ll see another place.” We spent a little time in one of the most bizarre and enjoyable watering holes I’ve ever had the pleasure to sit down in, “The Spirit Room.” There a bartender – who made her way to Jerome via Kansas City, LA and Lima, Peru – managed a single open room with a jukebox and a pool table. River guides, large flamboyant Native Americans, 75 year old locals, confused tourists and some funny but odd young locals all took turns telling stories, dancing, whooping it up, and asking questions. It was an odd crowd, but one you could appreciate.
We stayed in the biggest hotel in town, which turned out to be the old mining hospital. The hospital shut down with everything else in 1950, and it was another 25 years before someone bought it and turned it into a hotel. They say it’s haunted, and I believe it, because I had some pretty nutty dreams.
The next day we hit Boynton Canyon in Sedona. Now Sedona isn’t really off the beaten path for people who live in Arizona, but for us Seattlietes, I think it’s a fair to lump in there. Plus, we were on some different trails for 4 hours or so and only ran across about 20 people.
If you’ve not been to Sedona, it really is about the most beautiful place on earth to go for a hike, bring a philosophy book, clear your head and just marvel at everything around you. You just can’t get away from brilliant red rocks, stunning vistas, and changing scenery. One minute we’re walking nextto a canyon wall, the next we’re at a vista, and suddenly we’re in an ice trail and I have a mild concussion from slamming my head on the ground. Ok, maybe I’m exaggerating the concussion part, but I spent some time on my keister in the depths of that canyon.
So overall: Jerome – an awesome place to get away from everything. Boynton Canyon – like all Sedona trails, just a marvelous spot for walking and reflecting. Get down if you can. You won’t be disappointed.